Varansai

27 hours after boarding the train at Jodphur, I finally arrived at Varansai. En route to the hotel we were caught up in traffic due to a huge Sikh celebration moving towards us from further down the street. A nice, traditional way to be welcomed into a new Indian State! My first afternoon was spent getting used to the city, and discovering that my friend Antonio would be coming to meet up with me the next day!

The following morning I took a walk down to the famous Ghats (these Ghats line the length of the River Ganges, and each have steps leading down to the water where the religious pray morning and night, and bathe in the "holy" water - after seeing the water for yourself, you would describe it as anything but holy..), and see a cremation ceremony. This was extremely moving as it was the first body I have ever seen, and the religious ritual was taking place only a couple of feet away from me. A kind Nepali man named Babu explained the ceremony to me, before being interrupted by Indian rest-house worker who jumped in to tell me more and take me (even) closer, only to ask for money after he had shared his knowledge with me. I left with the same amount of rupees in my purse and also knowing that the ritual is broken up into 5 stages, depicting the 5 elements of Air, Earth, Fire, Water and Space. Each element involves a different kind of blessing; I saw the body being covered with Sandalwood (it was tossed over the body by a male family member who circled the body five times in a clockwise direction) to represent the element 'Earth'.

After meeting up with Antonio, we take a longer walk round the Ghats and end up in the Lotus Lounge. If you ever find yourself in Varansai, head there. The place is always packed and for a good reason - good food, great location over the Ganges and a cool place to meet fellow travelers.

That evening we headed back to the Ghats to find the place lit up with neon lights and abuzz with people. The atmosphere was incredible, like being at a football game or music concert. A famous Hindu Priest was giving a talk on the need to keep the Ganges clean (*ahem!*) and the Indian singer who performed was apparently some kind of national celebrity! I got chatting to the Tourist Officers nearby and next thing I knew I was being blessed by a bald headed Monk. Cool. Well, until he asked for money, and the Officers explained how he was a fake and just trying to make money off the good nature of religious people. And there was me
(and Antonio) left with a FAUX Bindi's between our eyes! We carried on further up the River and once again I found myself at the main cremation Ghat. We went up to the top rest-house (and the only one allowing public access) and watched an evening ceremony take place. Did I mention that once the ceremony is complete, the body is pushed out into the water to be completely cleansed and thus becomes enlightened. Another reason not to take a morning dip in the River... We moved on fairly quickly as the stench really was too much, and the smoke from the Pyres is enough to set your eyes crying for hours. Whilst walking, we stumbled upon a Comedy being acted out by some of the locals, a real treat!

The following morning it was up at 4.15am and down to the Ghats for 5am, to take a trip on a River Boat over the Ganges to watch the sun come up whilst all of the morning prayers were taking place. This was an amazing experience, as lined up along the entire length of the River, at every Ghat, beautiful Indian women donned colourful sari's and together with the men and children, bathed, prayed and welcomed in the new morning. This image, together with the rising of the most beautiful grapefruit-coloured Sun I have ever seen  (my photos just don't do it justice) was immense. And it was made even more powerful when you consider just how much the people were washing and lapping in the water, and just how polluted it really is! The boat trip ended with both me and Antonio taking it in turns to steer the boat. Antonio left much to be desired, but once I took hold of the oars and got into the swing of it, I was a natural, of course! And I kicked Antonio's butt!

I really enjoyed my time in Varansai and could have happily stayed longer than my 3 days there. And thanks to Antonio for meeting up with me again and hanging out :)